Rivals Costume Designer Ray Holman Honored to Dress Late Author Dame Jilly Cooper

Ray Holman, the costume designer for the acclaimed television series Rivals, has expressed his deep privilege in designing a specific outfit for the late Dame Jilly Cooper. The drama, which features a cast including David Tennant, Danny Dyer, Aiden Turner, and Emily Atack, adapts the second installment of Cooper’s renowned Rutshire Chronicles, focusing on the rivalry between two advertising agencies.

Holman, hailing from Pontypridd in the Rhondda Cynon Taf region, aimed to craft a look that resonated with Cooper, who made a cameo appearance in the series. He recalled suggesting a blue satin suit, an item she embraced enthusiastically. “One of the things I suggested was a blue satin suit and she adored it,” Holman shared. “She loved it so much she wore it to get her damehood and she wore it at the Hay festival.”

Speaking to BBC Radio Wales, Holman explained that his design choices for Cooper were influenced by her youthful style. He noted that she rarely wore dresses, describing her as a “country woman” at heart.

The second series, set against the backdrop of the 1987 general election, required costumes that authentically captured the decade. Holman utilized original Vogue magazines from his personal archive for research, with many garments custom-made for the cast and others sourced from vintage retailers. “I’m always searching for vintage jewellery,” he noted, pointing out that Splott Market in Cardiff was a key destination, with vendors often questioning why he was purchasing such large quantities of stock.

Tragically, Holman was on set during the filming of the second series when Cooper passed away at the age of 88 in October, following a fall at her residence. “Everybody had to go to the studio and they told us what had happened to Jilly and there was a lot of emotion,” he said. “We were all really upset.” Production halted briefly, but the team was encouraged to continue filming without returning home that evening. “They wheeled out a glass of champagne for everyone and said this is what she would have wanted.”

Holman emphasized Cooper’s significant involvement in the production, highlighting her supportive nature and the joy she derived from visiting the set and interacting with the cast and crew. Her input was vital in shaping the visual identities of her characters. For instance, she advised that David Tennant’s character, Corinium TV executive Lord Tony Baddingham, modeled his aesthetic on the power suits and bold pinstripes from the film Bugsy Malone. Holman recalled, “Dame Jilly told Holman that... he loved the power suits and the big pinstripes and that's what he bases his look on.” Tennant was receptive to this direction, particularly because every piece worn by his character was bespoke.

Beyond Rivals, Holman boasts an extensive resume, having worked on productions ranging from Broadchurch to Torchwood. He has also collaborated closely with three different actors portraying the Doctor in Doctor Who—Matt Smith, Peter Capaldi, and Jodie Whittaker—tailoring their wardrobes to their individual performances. “It’s a brand and it needs to be curated carefully,” Holman explained. “Whoever is playing the doctor, you listen to what they need to wear, what they want to do and you work that out. It’s very collaborative.”

Despite his success on high-profile, glamorous sets, Holman remains deeply connected to his working-class origins. He is motivated to inspire others from similar backgrounds to pursue careers in the creative sector. He recounted a discouraging experience early in his life: “A careers teacher said to me that a person like me couldn’t do that, and sent me to an insurance company, even though I had a place a college - and I believed him. I went to the insurance company and, after two months, I realised I'd done the wrong thing.”

To help prevent similar barriers for future generations, Holman and other industry creatives have established Screen Craft Guild Cymru. The organization aims to encourage and support the next wave of talent aspiring to become costume designers, makeup artists, and production staff.

Source: BBC News Generated at: 2026-06-02 18:09:03 UTC